2016年5月9日 星期一

關於配方豆你該知道的事(下)


In Part 1, we stole a glimpse at why blends matter and how they’ve come to dominate the market. But how do these beauties come into being? And how do master roasters surmount the numerous challenges that come hand-in-hand with manipulating a temperamental agricultural product into stable deliciousness?


上一章節,我們略述了配方豆的重要及配方豆如何主導市場,但配方豆是怎麼產生的?烘豆師如何掌握這些捉摸不定的生豆,並將其烘焙成美味又穩定的配方豆?




Straight Talk From the Pros: Roasters Are Storytellers  
烘豆師是說故事的人




To find out, we sat down with the pros and heard their advice for producing the perfect blend. So what did we learn?
為找尋答案,我們坐下來聽取他們對配置一支完美配方豆的建議,那我們有什麼收穫?



You’ve got to travel to meet your partners in taste, because you can’t tell a story if you haven’t bought into the plot yourself.
你必須透過旅行尋找合你口味的味道,不斷訴說你要講的故事






Joshua Tarlo, Coffee Development Manager at Origin Coffee Roasters, asserts that a solid blend is “…a mixture of extensive travel and tasting, bringing producers from different regions and countries together to create unique and delicious coffees. It’s working with long-established coffee producing partners to deliver the much loved coffees we’ve always had, and finding new partners through our connections around the world who share our progressive mindset and love of paying attention to the small details that make the final cup something special”.



Origin Coffee Roasters的開發經理Joshua Tarlo,斷言配方豆為:「我們與長期合作的生產夥伴一起傳遞我們所愛的咖啡,結合了豐富的旅行經驗及味覺,匯集來自不同的產區、國家的生產者,以共創獨特且美味的咖啡。透過我們的連結,找出世界各地能分享我們新想法的新夥伴,這些喜愛咖啡的新夥伴注意到的小細節,將賦予最後呈現的咖啡獨特性。」



Travel reveals stories that need to be told and recounted consistently. Through the ups and downs of seasonality, there are common threads that remain honest and universal. 



旅行,代表你必須賦予故事一致性,隨著季節的起伏變化,其中幾個共通點,我們仍然必須真實將其呈現出來。

Pacas Mill兼作咖啡日曬場的籃球場,由Origin CoffeeJon Attenborough提供







Each individual bean is approached with the blend’s story in mind. Epic tales are told by individual words, and when words go missing, the plot is easily lost.
每顆咖啡豆都會對配方豆造成影響,就如經典巨作也是由一字一句構成,缺一不可。



Timothy Hill from Counter Culture Coffee explains, “We like to create blends that have more depth than just great coffee and an interesting name. For us, the idea of the blend has to be just as good as the flavours of the coffee itself.  We have been putting tremendous effort into using our limited-release blends as a way for us to talk about big ideas and concepts in coffee. We select our coffees by cupping, then brewing combinations of what we think will work together. Sometimes we nail it on the first try, and other times it is back to the drawing board again and again.”



Counter Culture CoffeeTimothy Hill說:「我們喜歡調配具深度的配方豆,更甚於單純的好咖啡以及有趣的命名,對我們來說,配方豆的構成必須來自咖啡豆本身好的風味。我們一直在有限的配方豆中投注大量的努力,對此我們看的是咖啡的大方向,我們透過杯測選擇咖啡,並沖煮我們認為可行的配方。有時候我們會在第一次嘗試時就抓到我們要的,而其他時候則會一直嘗試。」



上圖為咖啡豆的原物料及配方豆的選擇,進行杯測,由Stumptown Coffee Roasters提供







Stumptown Coffee Roasters’ digital marketing manager Allie Shanholt tells us that blends create consistent profiles while maintaining fresh coffees from the source: “When we think of blends and blending we think about emergent qualities; in a great blend, the sum of coffees may be greater than the single attributes of any single coffee. Blending is art, or at least should be an art; it is one of the many primary tools in the roaster’s craft. At Stumptown our standards for our ‘blenders’ are incredibly high. We’re a bit singular in that we spend an enormous amount of time and effort on our blended coffees, often sourcing from day lots and so on”.



Stumptown Coffee Roasters的數位行銷經理Allie Shanholt說,當維持新鮮咖啡豆的來源時,就能維持配方豆品質的一致性:「當我們構思配方時我們想的是個性鮮明、品質優良的好配方,混合調配的咖啡豆可能比任何單品咖啡更好。配方豆是一門藝術,或至少可說是藝術品,它是烘豆師重要技藝的代表之一。在Stumptown我們對調配配方者的標準非常高,我們常常日以繼夜的尋找,花了大量的時間及精力在調配一個好的配方豆。


烘焙配方豆是一門藝術,由Stumptown Coffee Roasters提供





Mother Nature’s Ups and Downs Are No Match for Modern Roasters
大自然造成的起伏不影響現今的烘豆師了




Creating blends isn’t without its difficulties. Being altogether an agricultural product, coffee is subject to climate conditions, weather patterns, growth cycles and harvesting times that differ with each region or location.  Needless to say the variables present a mountain of challenges for roasters, and here’s how they deal with it:



調配配方豆並不是沒有困難,將農作物結合在一起,咖啡又跟不同產區及地點的氣候狀況、天氣型態、生長週期及收成時間有關係。不用說咖啡品種對烘豆師形成的眾多挑戰,而烘豆師是如何面對這些挑戰:





A truly global product. The sun never sets on the coffee world.
真正的全球性產品,一個永不日落的咖啡世界。



Tarlo tell us, “Seasonality and freshness is fundamentally important to us at Origin Coffee, so we change the contents of our blend as the harvest periods come and go. To help deal with the unique flavour qualities of each origin and how they affect the final cup, we seek out partners producing coffees of similar flavour profiles around the world so we can provide people with the coffees they love, year round.”



Tarlo說:「在Origin Coffee,季節性及新鮮對我們是基本的重點,我們隨著收成期來改變配方內容,為處理每支咖啡獨特風味,及對最後風味的影響,我們尋找各地種植相似風味咖啡的生產者,讓我們可以常年提供大家喜歡的咖啡。」



Blends: the ying to the yang of the coffee landscape. When environmental swings occur, blends provide balance.
配方豆是咖啡供需的調節者,當環境變動時,配方豆帶來了平衡。



Hill says, “Seasonality can make it difficult to maintain a great blend profile, but at Counter Culture we work hard to create coffee specifically for our blends that have the flavours we are looking for. For instance we are working in Uganda, Rwanda, and Burundi on perfecting some natural processed coffees for our blends that often contain Ethiopian Natural coffees on the other harvest side of the year.”



Hill說:「季節性使得維持好的配方更為困難,但在Counter Culture我們特別為配方豆創造我們尋找的風味,例如我們會用烏干達、盧安達及蒲隆地的優良日曬豆作為配方,並時常在另一個收成期時改用衣索比亞的日曬咖啡。」



Juan Pacas,由Origin Coffee Jon Attenborough提供






Jacob Ibarra, a coffee buyer and person in charge of the coffee program at Five Senses Coffee, admits that a lot of thought goes into the repeatability and reliability of the blend: “When creating this brief we mull over whether or not we can accomplish this year round. We make a conscious choice to use opposing or complementary origin harvests. Also, in our experience, we have concluded that certain coffees age better than others so our usage of a given coffee will not always look the same for each blend.”



Five Senses Coffee 的咖啡研究專案的採購人員Jacob Ibarra,承認花了很多心思考量配方豆的可重複性及可靠性:「當調配出配方,我們會考量是否能常年供應,我們有意的使用相反或互補性質的咖啡。此外,我們結論出某些年份的咖啡更好,所以我們並不總是用相同方式來調配配方豆。」





“In truth, it is a tricky puzzle to put together and every year it looks just a bit different, but we want our customers to experience a profile that is reliable yet embraces seasonality.”
「事實上,這是棘手又相互糾纏在一起的難題,每年看起來只有些微的不同,但我們想讓顧客品嘗到可被信靠,和仍保有其季節特色的一杯咖啡。」



Ross Quail, wholesale general manager for St AliSensory Lab, andClement Coffee Roasters, emphasises the importance of the skill of the person in charge of purchasing green beans: “Get a first class green bean buyer who can manage crop cycles and plan adequately. If your business wants to make consistently great coffee, it needs a dedicated individual to focus on this area.”



Ross Quail,身兼ST AliSensory LabClement Coffee Roasters的批發商,強調購買生豆時的技巧是非常重要的,「在可以充分掌握生豆的作物週期,就可以拿到高品質的咖啡豆,假如一個公司要做好咖啡,在這方面就必須要有一個專業、而能持續投注在採購的人員。」



印尼Bali在收成期時,手挑品質的咖啡果實,由Five Senses Coffee提供。







Meet the Blends
認識各種配方豆



Here’s a quick glimpse of some of the blends on the scene today. Get to know them, where they come from, and their story.
以下能夠讓你快速地了解在現今配方豆的來源及其故事。



Five Senses:



Crompton Road is a balanced blend with rich flavours of marzipan and dark chocolate, rounded out with a heavy buttery body and creamy aftertaste.
Crompton Road是一種有豐富杏仁和黑巧克力風味的配方豆,帶有奶油般圓潤的醇厚度,以及鮮奶油般的餘韻。



Harvest is an elegant, rounded coffee with notes of cherry, dark chocolate and blood orange, with a sweet candied aftertaste.
Harvest是一支優雅且飽滿的咖啡,帶有櫻桃、黑巧克力和血橙的味道,餘韻則是有甜甜的糖果味。



Dark Horse has a complex character and round juicy body with a dark chocolate, blackcurrant and delicate herbal flavour and velvety aftertaste.
Dark Horse是一支結合黑巧克力、黑醋栗及細緻草本風味的配方豆,餘韻順口。




Tightrope is sweet and fruity on the nose with a juicy mouthfeel and flavours of blueberry, biscuit and vanilla.
Tightrope是一支聞起來甘甜且富有水果風味的配方豆,喝起來則是富有果汁感,且有藍莓、餅乾和香草的味道。





Counter Culture Coffee (Limited Release Blends):



Underdog is a blend dedicated to origins often ignored by the best of the best in the specialty coffee market: Papua New Guinea, Timor, and Burundi.
Underdog的咖啡,是來自原產地的頂級精品咖啡,卻又常被忽略的產地:巴布亞新幾內亞、帝汶及蒲隆地。
Line Drawing is dedicated to new approaches for us in sustainability efforts.
Line Drawing是我們努力可以達到永續效益的新配方。
Sweet Valley High is a current limited-release blend dedicated to profile differences in the small area of Yirgacheffe, Ethiopia caused by the variety of the coffee trees and the terroir.
Sweet Vally High是限量配方豆,由衣索比亞耶加雪菲的微型產地中,不同樹種及具特殊風土條件的產區所出。




Origin Coffee:



Resolute is a no-nonsense classic idea of coffee: regardless of its contents, it aims for a dark chocolate and nutty taste with a big body. It was created to be the bedrock of that classic morning latte or that shot of espresso. A coffee that tastes like coffee. It includes coffee from Erwin Mierisch of Fincas Mierisch, Nicaragua.
Resolute 是一支經典的咖啡,強調其中黑巧克力及堅果風味所帶來的醇厚度,創造它的用意是用在早上那杯拿鐵或是那杯義式濃縮上。喝起來像咖啡的咖啡,來自尼加拉瓜Mierisch莊園的Erwin Mierisch
Pathfinder is the idea of a coffee being sweet yet tough, and recognition that coffee can be delicious syrupy berries, light chocolate and fruity. It’s about capturing the incredible qualities hidden in the best coffee cherries and roasting them to be the high notes in a cappuccino or the syrupy-like sweetness in an espresso. It includes coffee from the Pacas family farms in El Salvador.
Pathfinder喝起來甜而不澀,並讓這支咖啡有莓果糖漿、淡巧克力及果香的特性。萃取其果實中最好的成分,並加以烘焙,使這咖啡成為一杯卡布奇諾的重心,或是有糖漿甜味般的濃縮咖啡。來自薩爾瓦多Pacas家族莊園的咖啡



There are so many stories being told from around the world, tales that are woven together by a host of authors; crack open a freshly-roasted bag of specialty coffee to delve into the next delicious tale that awaits.
世界各地有這麼多烘豆師所寫的故事,我們則期待解開新鮮烘焙的精品咖啡,所帶來的下一個美味的故事。




Written by A. Pipunic and edited by T. Schrock.
翻譯by Come True Coffee咖啡苗

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