2016年4月25日 星期一

關於配方豆你該知道的事(上)


Let’s talk coffee blends, shall we? A few weeks ago, Perfect Daily Grind shed light on the edginess of single origin coffee, but now it’s time to get to know their cousins.

讓我們來談談咖啡配方豆,前些日子,Perfect Daily Grind才談完單品咖啡,現在則讓我們來了解單品的好兄弟-配方豆。




Single origins are like the snowflakes of the coffee world: no two are alike. With blends, however, the keywords are consistency and uniform excellence. They could be seen as the embodiment of market forces as articulated by the mastery of highly-skilled roasters looking to hit that bull’s eye of their customer’s palates. So, what exactly are these market forces that play into blend creation?

如同雪花結構般,世上沒有兩個單品咖啡是相同的,但配方豆最大的特點就是它優良的一致性及穩定性,技術高超的烘豆師會清楚找出市場的趨勢,抓住消費者的喜好,那究竟是什麼造就市場的趨勢?




Coffee Drinkers Are Winning

喝咖啡的人說了算



Until specialty coffee came along, coffee drinkers were subjected to mass-produced generic blends made from commodity coffees. These blends were typically sourced from the world’s dominant coffee producers at the time, namely Brazil and Central America.

喝咖啡的人在精品咖啡出現前,都習慣喝量產並且廣泛的配方豆,這些配方豆通常是由咖啡生產大國所製造,像巴西及中美洲國家。



This is fine and all, as long as you don’t know what you’re missing out on. Ignorance is bliss, but once you’ve had that first cup of specialty coffee, there’s no going back. It’s much like going from only eating white sandwich bread to tasting your first buttery croissant baked at your neighborhood bakery. You’re ruined – in an extremely good way. 

當你不知道你錯過什麼時反而是好事,無知便是福,但一旦你喝到精品咖啡,這會讓你無法自拔,更貼切的比喻,就像你只吃吐司麵包、而第一次吃到朋友剛烤好的奶油可頌,你會陷入幸福到無法抽離的境界。


薩爾瓦多的Pacas莊園及處理場,Pacas這品種是命名自兩個世代前在這裡發現的咖啡種。由Origin Coffee - Jon Attenborough提供




Synesso Hydra義式咖啡機上,以無底的沖煮把手萃取,由Five Senses Coffee提供。






Are Blends Any Good?

配方豆真的那麼好喝嗎?


So we’ve established that specialty coffee is much better than the old blends you used to get – but is today’s blend any better?

我們替精品咖啡豎立了一個良好的形象,它比「傳統配方豆」來的好,那麼,現今的配方豆呢?



Well, yes.

答案是肯定的



Mass-produced brands continue to blend largely for economical reasons, and also to mask any flavour discrepancies. On the other hand, specialty roasters focus on two main areas: flavour consistency and unique signature blends.

由於商業因素的考量,配方豆仍大量被生產,並且以不同的風味作為主打訴求。另一方面,精品咖啡的烘豆師主要著重在兩大領域:風味的一致性及獨特的配方豆




Why Blend?

為什麼是配方豆?


Café owners have a responsibility to offer a staple house blend. Their customers expect the same reliable taste that they’ve come to enjoy. It’s both delicious and comforting. Since coffee differs from crop to crop and season to season, this presents a challenge for the roaster.

咖啡店家有必要供應他們主要的招牌配方豆,他們的顧客對相同風味的咖啡帶有期待,好喝而且可以慰藉人心。但當咖啡豆隨著作物及季節的不同而有所變化時,這對烘豆師便是一大挑戰了!



Roasters these days also want to add value for their customers – and demonstrate their sophistication –  through offering limited, seasonally created blends. By doing this, cafes are able to expand their menus to include a choice of their trusted blend or a unique, adventurous coffee experience.

近年來,烘豆師想要透過供應限量、季節性的配方豆,讓顧客覺得他們的咖啡有附加的價值。這樣一來,咖啡店便能不斷的增加選項上的內容,創造味道可靠又獨特的配方,及新奇的咖啡體驗。


在瓜地馬拉艾茵赫特莊園種植的帕卡瑪拉種,由Stumptown樹墩城咖啡提供

Origin CoffeeJosh Tarlo在尼加拉瓜Los Altos莊園尋找好咖啡,由Jon Attenborough提供











Ask the Roaster: How Do You Create a Blend?

來問問烘豆師吧,要如何創造出一款配方豆?


We went ahead and spoke to some of the industry’s most respected roasters. They were kind enough to give the lowdown on how they are winning hearts and minds with their blends.

我們拜訪了在咖啡界最受推崇的烘豆師們,談談他們如何以配方豆來贏得大眾喜愛。



For Jacob Ibarra, the coffee buyer in charge of the coffee program atFive Senses Coffee, it’s all about fulfilling needs. “Our aim is for each of our blends to be servicing a different niche in the specialty market,” he told me. “Each cafe or customer has different needs and providing a blend solution to compete or offer a point of difference is something that we must offer”. Five Senses recently repositioned their blends, and as a result they developed and currently offer four clearly defined blend profiles their customers can select and expect throughout the year.

Jacob IbarraFive Senses Coffee 咖啡研究專案的採購人員,他認為其實答案就是滿足顧客需求,僅僅如此。「我們的目標就是讓每一支配方豆,都能滿足不同需求的顧客來打進精品咖啡的市場」。Five Sense Coffee最近重新為配方豆定位,結果發展出四種個性鮮明的配方豆,讓顧客可以描繪出他們一整年對咖啡的選擇及期待。



Origin Coffee Roasters is another specialty roaster that has recently reexamined the construction of its staple espresso blends that cater to their cafes’ (and in turn their customers) coffee wishlist. To gain insight into what modern palates are craving, they spoke to everyone from the true aficionados to those simply looking to kickstart their day.
另一個精品咖啡烘豆商Origin Coffee,最近也在重新架構適合他們咖啡店,並符合顧客期望的主打義式配方,來回饋給顧客,為了瞭解最新流行趨勢,他們從最基本每天早上要喝一杯咖啡的普通消費者,到對咖啡狂熱癡迷的愛好者做訪談。



Origin’s marketing manager Grace Reith explained, “We wanted to give people a clearer understanding of what every blend is. To do this we looked past the cupping tables, past the cafes, and even past the cup itself. We [thought] about what people look for in their coffee as inspiration for everything we do. In other words, we didn’t want to ask questions such as ‘do you feel like a filter or a cappuccino or a Nicaraguan or an Ethiopian coffee’, but rather we considered what happens even before that”. The customers’ expectation of the coffee experience drove them when deciding how to create a blend.

Origin Coffee的行銷經理Grace Reith說:「我們想讓每個顧客對配方豆有更清楚的認識,所以我們透過杯測桌、咖啡店、甚至咖啡本身來探討。我們過去認為消費者期望從咖啡中得到的,就是我們所做的事。換句話說,我們不單只是詢問消費者:「你想要手沖滴漏咖啡?卡布奇諾?尼加拉瓜或衣索比亞咖啡?」而是我們想了解更深層的需求,和對咖啡的期待和體驗,以創造出獨特的配方豆。



Ross Quail, wholesale general manager for St AliSensory Lab, andClement Coffee Roasters, also from Melbourne, Australia, agrees that a blend should encapsulate what the consumer expects: “Thinking about what people will want to drink and enjoy [is crucial]; it can be a mistake to just think about what you want.”

來自澳洲墨爾本的Ross Quail,也是身兼ST AliSensory LabClement Coffee Roasters的批發商,同意配方豆必須涵蓋消費者的期待,「預想人們想喝什麼、及想享受什麼非常重要,只想著你要什麼,是錯的」。



Yet while blends are definitely about the customer, they’re also about the company. Timothy Hill, coffee buyer and quality manager for Counter Culture Coffee, feels that “Blends are important because they tell you a lot about the company that makes it. In many ways, they are the products many companies are defined by. Blends are also the go-to products for customers that identify with the company and are likely looking for something that is more consistently available.”

儘管配方豆關乎消費者,它同時也關乎咖啡商。Counter Culture Coffee的採購兼品管經理Timothy Hill認為:「配方豆很重要,因為它會反映關於這咖啡商的許多事給大家知道。很多時候,許多公司會用配方豆來定義他們自己。配方豆也是消費者定義該間公司的指標,並且消費者可能透過配方豆來尋找更一致及穩定的咖啡。」



They pride themselves on full transparency regarding recipe and blend structure, whether it’s on the labels for the 12 ounce bags or the website description for the 5 pound bags for wholesalers. As Tim said, “We don’t believe in hiding the information; great blends simply come from great coffees, not some secret recipe.”

他們對於完全透明公開自己配方豆的配方感到自豪,無論是在12盎司包裝的標示、或是網站上批發的5磅咖啡豆袋都是。如Tim所說:「我們不覺得隱藏配方是好事,好的配方應該單純的來自好的咖啡,而不是某些秘方」。



It’s nice to know we’re in good hands and roasters have our best interests at heart. Next up we’ll take a look at how this translates into various blends and how roasters deal with the challenges of working with seasonal differences. Check back next week for part 2.

很高興我們有發自內心愛好咖啡的優秀人才及烘豆師。之後我們來看看,不同配方豆如何轉換,以及烘豆師如何應對季節變換的挑戰,請期待下集關於配方豆的介紹。



Written by A. Pipunic and edited by T. Schrock.

Original Source:
http://www.perfectdailygrind.com/2015/10/everything-you-need-to-know-about-coffee-blends-part-1/

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